Mérida – A City of Parks

There is so much to love about Mérida, Mexico: the beautiful architecture along Paseo de Montejo, the Mayan history, the wonderful food and even more wonderful people.

But what I have fallen in love with are its parks. Every neighborhood seems to have its own gathering place, with trees and benches and monuments. What makes them so special, though, is the life in those parks. Families gather, couples wander hand-in-hand, children play, and older people sit and watch the world go by.

The parks aren’t there waiting for tourists to arrive. They are waiting for the neighbors to come out and play. They are there for the locals to enjoy, from morning until late at night. They are woven into everyday life.

Plaza Grande is the most touristy park, set in the middle of the historic center of the city. It has visitors with cameras and the obligatory six-foot-tall MERIDA spelled out in colorful letters. But there are also locals pushing babies in strollers, fanning themselves on benches, and gathering together for an evening out. One night I saw a couple in their wedding finery posed for pictures along the candlelit path leading to the center of the park.

In fact, the evening I went to see the traditional Yucatecan dancing there, hundreds of Yucatecos had filled the seats. They are proud of their heritage and their city. They also love any reason to celebrate and be together. For the roughly two hours I was there, they cheered on every performer.

On my way to Plaza Grande, I stumbled on Parque de Santa Lucía, a lovely park right in front of Iglesia de Santa Lucía. There were street vendors and musicians and people from the neighborhood getting together.

A few nights before that, I went to Parque de Santiago, where Remembranzas Musicales (musical memories) is hosted every Tuesday night. It’s a free concert and dance, and the park was filled with dancers young and old enjoying the music and the company. Food stalls were set up – I couldn’t resist a marquesita, a slightly sweet waffled cone made on-site and filled with cheese. If you know me, you know I love my cheese.

While there I met two lovely women and their husbands. They spoke no English, and of course my Spanish is practically non-existent, but with gestures and the odd word here and there, I made new friends. I was even asked to dance!

Along my walks exploring the city, I’ve come across so many parks that call to me to come sit under their shade trees and rest on a bench. I almost never refuse the invitation, because from those benches, I can observe real life in Merída. Not places to check off a bucket list – just life.

It’s why I started all of this in the first place, why I like to stay more than just a few days in each new place. I want to breathe in the culture, to have genuine connections with people around the world.

Merída’s parks are made for this.

Planes, Trains, and Ships: The Rhythm of My Life

As I finish up the first leg of my wandering life, I’m discovering that how I travel is just as important as where I go.

Planes:

Air travel is usually the quickest – and the most frustrating – way to travel. From a pilot in Malta who tried to fix a mechanical issue on our plane (thankfully he realized he needed to call a real mechanic), to a mad dash through the Atlanta airport lugging a heavy bag and still arriving too late, to a medical emergency one row ahead of me that required that we turn around and start over, air travel is rarely boring. Annoying, stressful, and at times, downright miserable, yes, but rarely uneventful. Sometimes, though, it’s the best or the only way to get where you are going.

The funny thing is that I love planes and will happily put up with all the annoyances just to feel that rush of the lift-off.

Trains:

Trains are by far the best way to actually see a country. Its farms and mountains and small towns. You get a real feel for a country on the ground. It’s relaxing and slow and immerses you in the geography of a place.

It also eliminates a lot of the flying frustrations: you have control of your luggage, and there’s no TSA misery. Weather is much less likely to derail your plans. I used to take the Vermonter from Virginia to New Hampshire fairly frequently, and that bad boy ran even when planes were grounded.

Taking the Hogwarts Express Steam Train across the famous viaduct was so much fun, and all the trains through Scotland showed glorious scenery. And lots of sheep. So if sheep are your jam, definitely take a train through Scotland.

Let’s face it – it’s simply a more beautiful and comfortable way to travel.

Ships:

Ships are the slow-down-and-take-a-breath mode. I love being on the water, and the open ocean is so vast and awe inspiring.

I returned from the UK aboard a cruise ship. A two-week transatlantic cruise. Now for those of you turning up your noses, cruises happen to be a terrific mode of transportation. Along the way you stop at ports you might not have gone to otherwise, and yet never have to unpack. You don’t have to figure out accommodations or food or transportation – it’s all right there. For me it’s a way to unwind after a month of non-stop exploration.

One day you’re in Vigo, Spain, the next in Lisbon, then a few days at sea before arriving in Ponta Delgada. Four more sea days, then a stop in Bermuda. Another few sea days and you are back in the states.

A cruise ship gives you permission to slow down and read a book and write, which is what I did much of the time.

And it allows for some much-needed pampering. Y’all, I had a butler on this cruise, and she was nothing short of amazing! Pako remembered what I liked and made sure all of my refreshments were well-stocked every day, and she brought me room service. She showed me incredible kindness, genuinely took an interest in my life, and shared hers with me.

She even set up a disco ball and goodies in my cabin one night with a note to congratulate me on my retirement.

If you are ever on a Celebrity ship in a suite, I hope you are lucky enough to get Pako as your butler.

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After this leg of my wandering life, I’ve learned that I like a mix of all three transportation modes. Planes get me across continents. Trains let me watch them unfold. And cruise ships remind me that sometimes the journey is the destination.

I have several of all three scheduled over the next year, and I can’t wait to see the places they will take me.

Pivoting in Portugal

“You won’t make it,” the taxi driver kept telling me. But he had a solution: for $200 cash, he’d take me to Fátima instead.

I had just one day in Lisbon, and I wanted an overview of the city to help me decide what to explore further. So I had booked a tour.

The meeting place was a 10 minute cab ride from where I was, so 30 minutes before the tour I hopped into a cab and gave the driver directions. That’s when he announced I wasn’t going to make it. He then drove me all over the city for the next 30 minutes, repeating his offer to take me to Fátima every 5 minutes.

And of course I didn’t make it. When we finally arrived at the square 5 minutes too late, he said, “See, you didn’t make it. Now you have to go with me.”

I looked him dead in the eye and said not on your life. After paying €30 – which seemed highly inflated – I got out of the cab and looked around.

I had no clue where to go or what to do. I hadn’t properly researched Lisbon as I fully expected to have someone guide me.

Then I saw a tuk-tuk driver who, for some unknown reason, looked kind and safe to me. I approached him, told him I was traveling alone, and asked what he would charge for a tour. Because I was there out of season, he offered me a discounted rate.

So I climbed aboard, and my Plan B turned out to be one of the best tours I have ever taken.

What was supposed to be a two-to-three-hour tour turned into four hours as he drove me through every corner and every era of Lisbon’s history. He was incredibly knowledgeable and willing to answer my hundreds of questions. When we got to the site of the 1974 revolution, his passion made the history come to life, and I was brought to tears by the pride in his voice.

We talked politics and quality of life in his country and mine, history, architecture, food, and the effects of tourism on his city and around the world. We talked about his children and my children and grandchildren.

He took me to the place he swears has the best pastéis de nata in all of Portugal (Manteigaria), and I have to believe he was right. Those egg custard pastries were incredible, and I could easily have eaten six instead of the one I had.

Travel like this requires flexibility. Losing the money I’d paid for the original tour stung. But in the end, I experienced Lisbon through the eyes of someone who loves his city and his country and is eager to share it. I couldn’t have planned a better day.

If you are going to be in Lisbon, I’d highly recommend Domingos with Every Day is Sunday tours. Click the link below and use #EIS_30 for 30% off your tour. This isn’t an affiliate link and I don’t make money from it. I simply want others to have the fabulous experience I did.

Every Day is Sunday