Ok let me just start out by saying I suck at directions. Like seriously suck. I denied it for years, but finally, after being lost in any number of places, I am admitting it to myself and to everyone else.

I was pretty confident I could find my way around Valletta, though. It’s a small city, with two main pedestrian streets, and there are really only two ways to go – up or down. Or so my AI navigator assured me.

Well, after going up and down and up and down and up again, passing tattoo parlors and sidewalk biker bars, I still hadn’t found Republic Street.

One of the problems is the street signs. They don’t say Republic Street, or St. Mark Street, or Melita Street. Street signs are hard to find, and when you do find one, it says something like “Tarxim Zibel Hawn”, which I discovered is Maltese for “Don’t throw rubbish here.”

Not really helpful.

I finally did find Republic Street and St. John’s Co-Cathedral, but only after asking in the tattoo parlor and climbing approximately 1000 stairs.

But as is often the case, being lost proved to be one of the best things I did that day. I found little alleyways and hidden local spots to grab a bite and a drink, and saw much more of the city than just the parts most tourists stick to.

Valletta is easy to get to. If you are in St. Julian’s or Sliema, there is a ferry every 30 minutes that takes you directly there for 5 euros round trip.

Once you get to the harbor, though, there is a pretty wicked hike up hills and stairs to get to the city.

Valletta is not really built for those with mobility issues. The sidewalks are narrow, often only one person wide. And they are steep – so steep, in fact, that many have steps carved into them. There are staircases to climb everywhere.

Like much of Europe, getting around can be a challenge without ramps or lifts in most places.

But if you are able to make the climb, it’s well worth the effort.

Just keep telling yourself: There is gelato up top.