“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” – Henry Miller
Pivoting in Portugal
“You won’t make it,” the taxi driver kept telling me. But he had a solution: for $200 cash, he’d take me to Fátima instead.
I had just one day in Lisbon, and I wanted an overview of the city to help me decide what to explore further. So I had booked a tour.
The meeting place was a 10 minute cab ride from where I was, so 30 minutes before the tour I hopped into a cab and gave the driver directions. That’s when he announced I wasn’t going to make it. He then drove me all over the city for the next 30 minutes, repeating his offer to take me to Fátima every 5 minutes.
And of course I didn’t make it. When we finally arrived at the square 5 minutes too late, he said, “See, you didn’t make it. Now you have to go with me.”
I looked him dead in the eye and said not on your life. After paying €30 – which seemed highly inflated – I got out of the cab and looked around.
I had no clue where to go or what to do. I hadn’t properly researched Lisbon as I fully expected to have someone guide me.
Then I saw a tuk-tuk driver who, for some unknown reason, looked kind and safe to me. I approached him, told him I was traveling alone, and asked what he would charge for a tour. Because I was there out of season, he offered me a discounted rate.
So I climbed aboard, and my Plan B turned out to be one of the best tours I have ever taken.
What was supposed to be a two-to-three-hour tour turned into four hours as he drove me through every corner and every era of Lisbon’s history. He was incredibly knowledgeable and willing to answer my hundreds of questions. When we got to the site of the 1974 revolution, his passion made the history come to life, and I was brought to tears by the pride in his voice.
We talked politics and quality of life in his country and mine, history, architecture, food, and the effects of tourism on his city and around the world. We talked about his children and my children and grandchildren.
He took me to the place he swears has the best pastéis de nata in all of Portugal (Manteigaria), and I have to believe he was right. Those egg custard pastries were incredible, and I could easily have eaten six instead of the one I had.
Travel like this requires flexibility. Losing the money I’d paid for the original tour stung. But in the end, I experienced Lisbon through the eyes of someone who loves his city and his country and is eager to share it. I couldn’t have planned a better day.
If you are going to be in Lisbon, I’d highly recommend Domingos with Every Day is Sunday tours. Click the link below and use #EIS_30 for 30% off your tour. This isn’t an affiliate link and I don’t make money from it. I simply want others to have the fabulous experience I did.
A Tale of Three Hotels
In just under four weeks, I stayed in three hotels from three different hotel groups: The Hyatt Centric in Malta, an IHG property in Edinburgh, and a Marriott in Inverness. Two were modern and sleek, one was traditional and historic.
I thought I’d share a few personal observations that might help anyone planning a trip to Malta or Scotland.
The service in all three was exemplary. I was addressed by name, my preferences were remembered, and everyone I encountered was professional and kind.
The differences were in the accommodations.
Hyatt Centric Malta
Modern, sleek, and compact, with one outstanding feature: an incredibly comfortable bed. There was a pillow menu, and the feather pillows were wonderful. The towels were soft and absorbent, too, and plentiful. The staff was amazing. The gentleman at the hotel coffee shop and bar remembered my preferred morning croissant by the second day, and was so accommodating. A bottle of champagne was waiting for me when I got to my room that first day, a nice welcoming touch. And bonus: there is a rooftop pool. But the view from the room is a sliver of sunlight between buildings.
The biggest downside, though? Not a single drawer. I was staying for two weeks and had to live out of my suitcase for the entire time. Not my favorite way to travel. Apparently this is a trend, as I would later discover.
Who is this hotel for? St. Julian’s hotels are less expensive than those in Valletta. However, to see and do most of the things you will want to see and do, you will need to take a ferry from Sliema. So you need to be prepared to walk or take a taxi to the ferry. St. Julian’s is a party town, though the Hyatt Centric is up the hill away from most of the action, and it never bothered me. But if you are looking for convenience and less transportation time, I would recommend staying in Valletta. Just be prepared to pay more.
Hotel Indigo, Princes Street, Edinburgh
This IHG property was gorgeous, with beautiful woodwork, winding staircases, lush fabrics, and artwork everywhere. My room was huge, with an incredible view of Old Town, and there was plenty of drawer and storage space. The pillows were soft, and there was a pillow menu here, too. The location is perfect, just across the street from the Edinburgh Waverly train station and a walk up the hill to the Royal Mile.
Full disclosure: my opinion may be somewhat influenced by the fact that because of my IHG Platinum status, I was upgraded to a suite. But I’ve seen photos of the standard rooms, and they look just as lovely, if a bit smaller.
My one complaint? The mattress was horribly uncomfortable and obviously well past its prime. It slanted so dramatically to the right that I was always in danger of rolling off the bed. A beautiful room can only make up for so much when you’re trying to sleep!
Who is this hotel for? In spite of the mattress, I would absolutely stay here again. This hotel is for anyone who loves history, architecture, and charm in a hotel. I would highly recommend it, but ask to be moved if you get a wonky mattress.
AC Marriott, Inverness
Another modern, sleek room, and – surprise! – no drawers. Fortunately, I was only there for four nights, so I could manage out of my suitcase. Still, it was annoying.
The mattress was comfortable, the view of the River Ness spectacular, and the room looked a lot like the one in Malta. Are they all using the same designers?
The towels did feel a bit like sandpaper. But in spite of that and the lack of storage, the view and the location made up for it all.
Who is this hotel for? I’d say this hotel is for anyone who wants a lovely and safe area. The walk along the river is heavenly, and there are pubs and restaurants a stone’s throw from the hotel. I would highly recommend it for that alone.
Despite their differences, all three hotels provided wonderful service, and I’d happily stay at any of them again. All were in excellent locations, with plenty of shops and restaurants nearby, and all three neighborhoods felt completely safe for me to walk alone, even after dark.
Have questions about the hotels, the areas, or how I booked all three with credit card points? Leave your questions in a comment below.
I ♥️ Scotland
When I flew from Malta to Scotland, I went from shorts to a puffer jacket in 12 hours. It was sunny and warm when i left Malta at 8:00am and rainy and 50 degrees when I finally arrived in Edinburgh at 8:00pm, after delayed and rescheduled flights.
In spite of the difference in climate, Malta and Scotland are similar in many ways. Both are small countries with mountainous landscapes, long histories, interesting architecture, and warm people. Both are easy to navigate without a car, and both are incredibly safe for solo female travelers.
But while each is magical in its own way, only one spoke to my heart.
I found Malta fascinating. I fell in love with Scotland. Its glorious rivers and lochs, its mountains, its green hills strewn with sheep. Its bloody and courageous history. The Scottish wry sense of humor.
I surprised myself by thinking “I could live here.”
My daughters will tell you that I say that almost everywhere I go. I find something to love in every country. (Although I loved Iceland, I didn’t say I could live there, by the way.)
But there was something that spoke to me in the Highlands. Something that made me feel like I had come home.
What makes one place fascinating intellectually, but another elicit an emotional response? Why is it there are some places we visit, and some we carry with us long after we leave? I’m not sure I know the answer to that. Maybe I’ll figure it out one day.
Until then, I’ll just enjoy the journey.
