“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” – Henry Miller
Planes, Trains, and Ships: The Rhythm of My Life
As I finish up the first leg of my wandering life, I’m discovering that how I travel is just as important as where I go.
Planes:
Air travel is usually the quickest – and the most frustrating – way to travel. From a pilot in Malta who tried to fix a mechanical issue on our plane (thankfully he realized he needed to call a real mechanic), to a mad dash through the Atlanta airport lugging a heavy bag and still arriving too late, to a medical emergency one row ahead of me that required that we turn around and start over, air travel is rarely boring. Annoying, stressful, and at times, downright miserable, yes, but rarely uneventful. Sometimes, though, it’s the best or the only way to get where you are going.
The funny thing is that I love planes and will happily put up with all the annoyances just to feel that rush of the lift-off.
Trains:
Trains are by far the best way to actually see a country. Its farms and mountains and small towns. You get a real feel for a country on the ground. It’s relaxing and slow and immerses you in the geography of a place.
It also eliminates a lot of the flying frustrations: you have control of your luggage, and there’s no TSA misery. Weather is much less likely to derail your plans. I used to take the Vermonter from Virginia to New Hampshire fairly frequently, and that bad boy ran even when planes were grounded.
Taking the Hogwarts Express Steam Train across the famous viaduct was so much fun, and all the trains through Scotland showed glorious scenery. And lots of sheep. So if sheep are your jam, definitely take a train through Scotland.
Let’s face it – it’s simply a more beautiful and comfortable way to travel.
Ships:
Ships are the slow-down-and-take-a-breath mode. I love being on the water, and the open ocean is so vast and awe inspiring.
I returned from the UK aboard a cruise ship. A two-week transatlantic cruise. Now for those of you turning up your noses, cruises happen to be a terrific mode of transportation. Along the way you stop at ports you might not have gone to otherwise, and yet never have to unpack. You don’t have to figure out accommodations or food or transportation – it’s all right there. For me it’s a way to unwind after a month of non-stop exploration.
One day you’re in Vigo, Spain, the next in Lisbon, then a few days at sea before arriving in Ponta Delgada. Four more sea days, then a stop in Bermuda. Another few sea days and you are back in the states.
A cruise ship gives you permission to slow down and read a book and write, which is what I did much of the time.
And it allows for some much-needed pampering. Y’all, I had a butler on this cruise, and she was nothing short of amazing! Pako remembered what I liked and made sure all of my refreshments were well-stocked every day, and she brought me room service. She showed me incredible kindness, genuinely took an interest in my life, and shared hers with me.
She even set up a disco ball and goodies in my cabin one night with a note to congratulate me on my retirement.
If you are ever on a Celebrity ship in a suite, I hope you are lucky enough to get Pako as your butler.
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After this leg of my wandering life, I’ve learned that I like a mix of all three transportation modes. Planes get me across continents. Trains let me watch them unfold. And cruise ships remind me that sometimes the journey is the destination.
I have several of all three scheduled over the next year, and I can’t wait to see the places they will take me.
Pivoting in Portugal
“You won’t make it,” the taxi driver kept telling me. But he had a solution: for $200 cash, he’d take me to Fátima instead.
I had just one day in Lisbon, and I wanted an overview of the city to help me decide what to explore further. So I had booked a tour.
The meeting place was a 10 minute cab ride from where I was, so 30 minutes before the tour I hopped into a cab and gave the driver directions. That’s when he announced I wasn’t going to make it. He then drove me all over the city for the next 30 minutes, repeating his offer to take me to Fátima every 5 minutes.
And of course I didn’t make it. When we finally arrived at the square 5 minutes too late, he said, “See, you didn’t make it. Now you have to go with me.”
I looked him dead in the eye and said not on your life. After paying €30 – which seemed highly inflated – I got out of the cab and looked around.
I had no clue where to go or what to do. I hadn’t properly researched Lisbon as I fully expected to have someone guide me.
Then I saw a tuk-tuk driver who, for some unknown reason, looked kind and safe to me. I approached him, told him I was traveling alone, and asked what he would charge for a tour. Because I was there out of season, he offered me a discounted rate.
So I climbed aboard, and my Plan B turned out to be one of the best tours I have ever taken.
What was supposed to be a two-to-three-hour tour turned into four hours as he drove me through every corner and every era of Lisbon’s history. He was incredibly knowledgeable and willing to answer my hundreds of questions. When we got to the site of the 1974 revolution, his passion made the history come to life, and I was brought to tears by the pride in his voice.
We talked politics and quality of life in his country and mine, history, architecture, food, and the effects of tourism on his city and around the world. We talked about his children and my children and grandchildren.
He took me to the place he swears has the best pastéis de nata in all of Portugal (Manteigaria), and I have to believe he was right. Those egg custard pastries were incredible, and I could easily have eaten six instead of the one I had.
Travel like this requires flexibility. Losing the money I’d paid for the original tour stung. But in the end, I experienced Lisbon through the eyes of someone who loves his city and his country and is eager to share it. I couldn’t have planned a better day.
If you are going to be in Lisbon, I’d highly recommend Domingos with Every Day is Sunday tours. Click the link below and use #EIS_30 for 30% off your tour. This isn’t an affiliate link and I don’t make money from it. I simply want others to have the fabulous experience I did.
A Tale of Three Hotels
In just under four weeks, I stayed in three hotels from three different hotel groups: The Hyatt Centric in Malta, an IHG property in Edinburgh, and a Marriott in Inverness. Two were modern and sleek, one was traditional and historic.
I thought I’d share a few personal observations that might help anyone planning a trip to Malta or Scotland.
The service in all three was exemplary. I was addressed by name, my preferences were remembered, and everyone I encountered was professional and kind.
The differences were in the accommodations.
Hyatt Centric Malta
Modern, sleek, and compact, with one outstanding feature: an incredibly comfortable bed. There was a pillow menu, and the feather pillows were wonderful. The towels were soft and absorbent, too, and plentiful. The staff was amazing. The gentleman at the hotel coffee shop and bar remembered my preferred morning croissant by the second day, and was so accommodating. A bottle of champagne was waiting for me when I got to my room that first day, a nice welcoming touch. And bonus: there is a rooftop pool. But the view from the room is a sliver of sunlight between buildings.
The biggest downside, though? Not a single drawer. I was staying for two weeks and had to live out of my suitcase for the entire time. Not my favorite way to travel. Apparently this is a trend, as I would later discover.
Who is this hotel for? St. Julian’s hotels are less expensive than those in Valletta. However, to see and do most of the things you will want to see and do, you will need to take a ferry from Sliema. So you need to be prepared to walk or take a taxi to the ferry. St. Julian’s is a party town, though the Hyatt Centric is up the hill away from most of the action, and it never bothered me. But if you are looking for convenience and less transportation time, I would recommend staying in Valletta. Just be prepared to pay more.
Hotel Indigo, Princes Street, Edinburgh
This IHG property was gorgeous, with beautiful woodwork, winding staircases, lush fabrics, and artwork everywhere. My room was huge, with an incredible view of Old Town, and there was plenty of drawer and storage space. The pillows were soft, and there was a pillow menu here, too. The location is perfect, just across the street from the Edinburgh Waverly train station and a walk up the hill to the Royal Mile.
Full disclosure: my opinion may be somewhat influenced by the fact that because of my IHG Platinum status, I was upgraded to a suite. But I’ve seen photos of the standard rooms, and they look just as lovely, if a bit smaller.
My one complaint? The mattress was horribly uncomfortable and obviously well past its prime. It slanted so dramatically to the right that I was always in danger of rolling off the bed. A beautiful room can only make up for so much when you’re trying to sleep!
Who is this hotel for? In spite of the mattress, I would absolutely stay here again. This hotel is for anyone who loves history, architecture, and charm in a hotel. I would highly recommend it, but ask to be moved if you get a wonky mattress.
AC Marriott, Inverness
Another modern, sleek room, and – surprise! – no drawers. Fortunately, I was only there for four nights, so I could manage out of my suitcase. Still, it was annoying.
The mattress was comfortable, the view of the River Ness spectacular, and the room looked a lot like the one in Malta. Are they all using the same designers?
The towels did feel a bit like sandpaper. But in spite of that and the lack of storage, the view and the location made up for it all.
Who is this hotel for? I’d say this hotel is for anyone who wants a lovely and safe area. The walk along the river is heavenly, and there are pubs and restaurants a stone’s throw from the hotel. I would highly recommend it for that alone.
Despite their differences, all three hotels provided wonderful service, and I’d happily stay at any of them again. All were in excellent locations, with plenty of shops and restaurants nearby, and all three neighborhoods felt completely safe for me to walk alone, even after dark.
Have questions about the hotels, the areas, or how I booked all three with credit card points? Leave your questions in a comment below.
